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hemi dolly

DemonSRT

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#1
If you have access to a 2 post hoist.

This Cradle works like a charm for bringing the engine down from below.

You also do not need to remove your hood.

You would first let the k-member, engine & trans assembly hang from the car by loosening the 4 k-member and 4 transmission crossmember bolts about 3/8" out evenly, then let the car down just to make k-member contact the cradle, then raise the transmission scissor jack snug under the trans.

(Of course prior to this you have disconnected everything else to allow this assembly to come down.)

You then completely remove the 4 k-member & 4 trans cross member bolts and slowly raise the car making sure you have not forgotten to disconnect anything or that it might just get caught on something.

You can leave the A/C system sealed by just having another set of hands on a six foot by ladder holding the Compressor away from scratching the block and valve covers as the car is being raised.

What I did by myself was bungee cord it off to the side and placed a heavy cloth over that section of the engine and raised the car inches at a time then get up on the ladder and make sure the A/C compressor was sliding by nicely plus looking for any hang ups as I am bringing the car up until it was clear like what oilburners picture shows a few posts ago, then just roll it away.

@oilburner, @Hpindy and myself have used it now several times and would never do a removal from any of these LX/LC cars any other way after the first time we used it.
 


Last edited:

oilburner

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#2
here you go @BULL or anyone else interested
main frame is 5ft long by 28 inch wide. box on top of frame is 15 inch tall, same width as main frame an 23 an a half inch long.
all square tubbing is pre cut including angles by steel supplier. all tubbing is 3 inch by 3/16th wall.
heavy duty 6 by 2 inch casters that pivot 360 degrees for those fine movements when aligning locating dowels that fit in factory cradle holes.
separate support under oil pan to enable trans. removal. trans. support is adjustable. rubber pad so not to scratch cradle frt an rear.
this thing can roll around the floor easy like a large costco shopping cart.:giggle:
very sturdy.
this was @DemonSRTs idea an design. I keep telling him I was just the welder;)

if anyone that does a lot of engine removals on this platform, would want this in their shop.
 


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#3
That's nice. work smarter, not harder. I really dig that.
 


OP
DemonSRT

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Thread Starter #4
Here is a picture showing the pins that help keep the K-member in place. IMG_2150a.JPG
 


jgilj

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#5
Damn it that’s art work! Thanks for the info! Now I’ll need to find a welder😳
 


OP
DemonSRT

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Thread Starter #6
Here's the raw metal used in this unit. IMG_2122.JPG
 


oilburner

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#7

jgilj

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#8
I’d be bringing that bad boy in the living room as a center piece 👍
 


BULL

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#9
Are the dimension given "Center to Center" or OD?
 


oilburner

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#10

oilburner

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#11
you will have to measure the distance between the 2 holes in the K frame for your 2 centering dowels an were the big nut is welded for your oil pan support.
notice in the pic the oil pan support is not in align with dowels ,its offset.
if you run a string frt to rear through the frames holes you will see it.
its important you transfer the measurements from your K frame / oil pan to the dolly.
the dowels on this unit fit precise an maybe a smaller dowel would be a little more forgiving.
 


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#12
you will have to measure the distance between the 2 holes in the K frame for your 2 centering dowels an were the big nut is welded for your oil pan support.
notice in the pic the oil pan support is not in align with dowels ,its offset.
if you run a string frt to rear through the frames holes you will see it.
its important you transfer the measurements from your K frame / oil pan to the dolly.
the dowels on this unit fit precise an maybe a smaller dowel would be a little more forgiving.

Whatever that distance is, you'd expect it to be consistent, correct?
 


oilburner

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#13
Whatever that distance is, you'd expect it to be consistent, correct?
for sure! don`t think there`s any difference in the K frame between MYs
so far its been perfect for 09 srt, my16 cat, 18 demon an 18 cat.
 


OP
DemonSRT

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Thread Starter #14
The locating pin holes in the K-member of the LX/LC chassis, (300's, Magnum's, Charger's & Challenger's), from day one to present are in the same location and size. I just need to confirm if the AWD vehicles are also the same as I have not worked on one of them yet to find out.
 


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DemonSRT

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Thread Starter #15
If I built a few of these and the freight cost is low enough would anyone be interested in one of these?
 


jonx96

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#16
If I built a few of these and the freight cost is low enough would anyone be interested in one of these?
How much do you think they’d cost without freight? @Hpindy and @moparjim are trying to talk me and @vortecd into a Canada trip
 


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#17
How much do you think they’d cost without freight? @Hpindy and @moparjim are trying to talk me and @vortecd into a Canada trip
Yes ...... Yes we are !

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
 


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#18
This dolly is the cats meow! Im thinking on using it even when I have to change spark plugs ......

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#19
This dolly is the cats meow! Im thinking on using it even when I have to change spark plugs ......

Sent from my BBF100-2 using Tapatalk
I still need the barn. I’ve been waiting 2 years for prices to settle but at this point it just needs to happen. Lift is one of the first things.
 


Hpindy

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#20
I still need the barn. I’ve been waiting 2 years for prices to settle but at this point it just needs to happen. Lift is one of the first things.
I have a good work shop for but the celing is not high enough for a hoist ........ The shingles need to be done now and I'm considering raising the roof for a hoist if I got to do work up there anyway .

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