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fumanchu182

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Thread Starter #581
Using up that foil tape?? Fiberglass underneath??. Armaflex may work better but hard to deal with if not used to the glue. Glue is 25/50 ratings.
No fiberglas under the tape, not needed. Armaflex was used on the main cross hose from KC out to coolant tank. Used the self sealing armaflex. Everything else is wrapped in Vibrant heat shield.
 


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Good job. You know they make the Armacell for hot and cold services now. I used some stuff in Orlando on a chiller that is good for 1,200 degrees. Even the glue was rated that high. One end was 42 the other was 1,100. Whata difference it made when we finished. Took 3 men 3 months to do this damn machine. The job looks good and the right materials. You did your home work.
 


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Thread Starter #583
Car is back on the road. For final bumper fit I had to remove the velconstrap as it interfered. You will have to trim a little styrofoam. The lip that rest on the cross member.

05D89135-C5C1-4C75-9B15-2D1015E64E9A.jpeg
 


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Thread Starter #584
After refilling refrigerant, she was at 100 degrees, within two minutes got to 59 degrees. We had more air bubbles come out after switching the valve a few times. Drove on the way home. Super cold, as cold as the refrigerant would go. Drove home with max ac just to push it.

51C5F785-F913-4545-BE8D-4FE87103DE96.jpeg F04FC7F8-F5D1-4AAE-A1E4-086E59DB4A51.jpeg 887C6068-8905-4963-A778-526DBB3D2C82.jpeg A37E7B58-47C6-465B-BE81-C6348728C0D1.jpeg
ignore the glock (its my carry piece), we would threaten the ac machine with it periodically if it wouldnt refill it 🤣

just at idle it dropped it 40* thats impressive as hell!
 


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That is great. Congrats. I was going to ask you the other day, if with the mods. If you thought you may need a air separators or eliminator?? Just until the bubbles go away then take em out or leave 1 in. Not very big. 3/8 brass screwed into a fitting.
 


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Thread Starter #586
Today at idle with more bubles out it got it down to the 40s with ease. On the way home last night I popped P0EA7. Thought I blew up the pump. No sir, that fluid is still circulating like a champ.

5D3704C8-EDC9-4BA3-BB4F-699A30D13E55.jpeg
 


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Are you running straight water in it or do you have some antifreeze in it? It needs a 30% solution of antifreeze because it’s monitoring the current of the pump motor and if it doesn’t see the proper resistance to spin the impeller (load ) it thinks it’s running dry or it passed an air bubble that’s what the code is meaning something was odd with the pump current
 


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Thread Starter #588
Are you running straight water in it or do you have some antifreeze in it? It needs a 30% solution of antifreeze because it’s monitoring the current of the pump motor and if it doesn’t see the proper resistance to spin the impeller (load ) it thinks it’s running dry or it passed an air bubble that’s what the code is meaning something was odd with the pump current
I'm running the standard 50/50 mix from dodge. I honestly think it passed an air bubble. I'll keep doing heat cycles and trying to get it out. I haven't cracked the brass valve yet on the super charger while running the pump, that is my evening task.
 


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I am getting my car back at 10 am on Thursday. They are going to detail the critter before bringing it home. I will do a 3 time over then take it to the car show at 5. They have not had my in fool ence in a month. Time to shine with the Yankeeys before they head home. Easter is their time to leaves em alone. They are a bunch of fun loving 70 and 80 years youn sters that love cars, trucks, and what ever they call some of these things. I am glad I do not have to shine all this chrome that is every where. 24 hours of ball bustin, back breakin, knee killing work. I 10 minute rain storm and all fer nuttin. Why don't own chrome any moe. You girls need to get out of church and get back hea.
 


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Thread Starter #590
I'm still doing testing and trying to get as much data as possible. The car idled for 2:48 in this first screenshot.
1648749679607.png

Notice IAT sensors. TL;DR b1s1 is on intake, b1s2 is on snout passed throttle body, b1s3 is on the lid. All higher than ambient as the car is starting to heat up. Take note of the Charge Air Cooler sensors, those are post the bricks, one is in the front and one is in the rear of the super charger. Fast forward to idle still, car has been on for a hot minute, 7:25s in...
1648750146985.png

As the super charger has gotten hot, the air temps average out to 68.6 still, which means the KillerChiller is doing it's job as the post brick temperature is cool going into the engine. Still going to test and look forward to hitting the track tomorrow night. Also the KC frosted up on the outside, it was getting stupid cold.
 


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Obviously with the car moving that'll be greatly reduced.
 


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Thread Starter #592
Obviously with the car moving that'll be greatly reduced.
For sure! My thinking is, find more things to heat wrap or just go for a lap in the parking area before hitting the staging lanes. 😈
 


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Got my car back and now it is going to rain.
 


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Thread Starter #594
So I did not have a great time at the track. The Killer Chiller didn't do shit to stop IATs from going sky high. So there are a couple of things I'm having issues with. The first being the location of the drag valve. With this in the location that it is currently I cannot get either the stock HC air box or the jlt in. I thought by running without a surrounding or enclosed airbox it would be okay. Boy was I wrong. On a run... 200* F air charge temperature... like wtf how... my boost is also out of control ~20 PSI in fifth gear... like I've never see boost like that before.

sS

1648875330258.png

So I'm at an impasse, I can't relocate the drag valve like @16GoManGoHC2 did cause oddly my transmission lines are in the way and I can't get my stock Hellcat box back in. I can't believe how much of a difference an enclosed or partitioned air box can make. I may have the system evacuated again so I can maybe point the valve down and see what box I can get to fit in there. I'm very sad that I can get cooler temperatures without the system.
 


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What pulley combo you running?
Sorry to hear you had a shitty track night. How much Freon did your system take? Did you use sealant on the flares?
 


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Thread Starter #596
What pulley combo you running?
Sorry to hear you had a shitty track night. How much Freon did your system take? Did you use sealant on the flares?
2.72 Hellraiser pulley. I called Kincaid and he said 6oz over stock. So we have ~.8kg of 1234yf in there. Sealant on the flares wasnt needed we ran a vacuum test four times and it passed. If a leak is detected, Dodge’s machines wont pump it in.
 


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Thread Starter #597
Of note i also wore the glasses, no leaks. Also on normal idle/cruise she gets cold, below or near 40* IC temps with iats staying at 69*.
 


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Your issue probably isn't related to having a non-sealed airbox. There's a ton of non-boxed aftermarket intakes running around out there with the factory cooling setup that don't experience anything like what you are.

It helps to understand theory of operation in this case with several pieces at play.

The vast majority of the heat that you're seeing is generated within the blower itself when that air gets compressed into boost. That would be your BSS3 temp at 266F. Then it passes through the intercooler and that heat is transferred into the fluid depending on the temp of that fluid. With the amount of heat that gets generated and transferred in, that fluid will heat up super quick so it needs to be replaced by fluid that isn't heated (you need good flow for that). With a stock system, this process of heat transfer, flow, and heat extraction through the secondary and primary heat exchangers is able to bring those 266F (or more!) temps back down to a reasonable 130F-160F range.

Likely what's happening is that you have a flow issue. The fluid isn't getting replaced by cooler fluid fast enough in the intercooler bricks. It heats up, stays hot, and the hotter the fluid, the less heat it'll be able to extract out of the air charge. Typical reasons that I commonly see are air in lines, flow restrictions due to routing either because of a pinch or bend or too many right angles creating additional head pressure, weak intercooler pump, etc.

Note how I haven't mentioned anything about how your chiller is operating. That's another piece but that piece seems to be working fine based on what you've stated so far. I'd focus more on how things are routed and flowing. You can also increase the factory pump speeds in the tune which may help if you haven't already done this.
 


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Another interesting tidbit that a lot people find hard to believe.

Boost is higher pre intercooler than post intercooler. Boost pressure drops after passing through the bricks, how much it drops depends on the temp change. The larger the drop in temp, the larger the corresponding drop in boost. There's some physics that explain this behavior but I'm not going to get into that. Once you get your post intercooler IAT"s under control, you'll see that your boost will be back down to normal or maybe even lower than before if you're IAT"s stay below 120F the whole way down the track.
 


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Thread Starter #600
Your issue probably isn't related to having a non-sealed airbox. There's a ton of non-boxed aftermarket intakes running around out there with the factory cooling setup that don't experience anything like what you are.

It helps to understand theory of operation in this case with several pieces at play.

The vast majority of the heat that you're seeing is generated within the blower itself when that air gets compressed into boost. That would be your BSS3 temp at 266F. Then it passes through the intercooler and that heat is transferred into the fluid depending on the temp of that fluid. With the amount of heat that gets generated and transferred in, that fluid will heat up super quick so it needs to be replaced by fluid that isn't heated (you need good flow for that). With a stock system, this process of heat transfer, flow, and heat extraction through the secondary and primary heat exchangers is able to bring those 266F (or more!) temps back down to a reasonable 130F-160F range.

Likely what's happening is that you have a flow issue. The fluid isn't getting replaced by cooler fluid fast enough in the intercooler bricks. It heats up, stays hot, and the hotter the fluid, the less heat it'll be able to extract out of the air charge. Typical reasons that I commonly see are air in lines, flow restrictions due to routing either because of a pinch or bend or too many right angles creating additional head pressure, weak intercooler pump, etc.

Note how I haven't mentioned anything about how your chiller is operating. That's another piece but that piece seems to be working fine based on what you've stated so far. I'd focus more on how things are routed and flowing. You can also increase the factory pump speeds in the tune which may help if you haven't already done this.
Another interesting tidbit that a lot people find hard to believe.

Boost is higher pre intercooler than post intercooler. Boost pressure drops after passing through the bricks, how much it drops depends on the temp change. The larger the drop in temp, the larger the corresponding drop in boost. There's some physics that explain this behavior but I'm not going to get into that. Once you get your post intercooler IAT"s under control, you'll see that your boost will be back down to normal or maybe even lower than before if you're IAT"s stay below 120F the whole way down the track.
thank you for the information, strike one against me was not having enough coolant in the system.

447B4D6E-CD6F-469F-8CBD-1E7E28A2FFF8.jpeg
A5A9C695-DA80-4987-99E6-9ED3225D0E78.jpeg
Fixed that issue, BMR recommends 1/2 inch from lid.

second was me not bleeding from the s/c port
027B6BE4-FAA0-4542-A517-C4B860F85566.jpeg
when i say she gurgled and air fizzed out i mean it…
https://youtube.com/shorts/GCYZZ-nWdx0?feature=share

Uploaded it as a short, still trouble shooting and will report back. Might go to the track tomorrow.
 




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