What I found changing fuel injectors

[Idoru99]

I had some time last night to make some progress to get my flex fuel tune moving along (Jon has been patient through all the delays and tribulations)

Anyway, started the process of changing out my fuel injectors by watching Speedy's video (splitch of fuel, huh? hahaha). Started working on the passenger side and had a hard time getting the front T30 screw out. It started easy, but about halfway through removal, it started getting really tough. Went over to the driver's side and while the rails spilled more fuel than I expected, the whole process went fairly well. Go back over to the passenger side, rear screw comes out fine, but that front is being a complete pain in the a**. Honestly, was getting the feeling that it was cross-threaded during original assembly. Figuring that the screw had to come out eventually, I pushed through (now I'm not sure that was a good idea or not). Anyway, this is what I find.



Very nice galling, if I do say so myself. Now, I could have screwed this up, but it really feels like it started cross-threaded during assembly and the just "air-tooled" in. I wasn't able to see the thread in the supercharger lid, not sure how bad those are.

Obviously, I need a new screw, I can order that from eastcoastmoparts or just go to my local dealer. However, do you think I can chase the threads in the supercharger lid to clean them out? Anyone know the size / thread pitch for that off the top of their head? Does this look more dire? Am I going to need to cut my "tap and die" teeth on my supercharger lid?

Any other advice?

Thank in advance. I appreciate you all, hopefully it won't be too much of a PITA.

 

[vortecd]

That is crazy. I have taken mine out a few times and once loosened they spin out by hand. I would think you could chase the threads out. Go to the hardware store and figure out what size it is and depending how long it will be to get a replacement buy one close to use for now

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

I had some time last night to make some progress to get my flex fuel tune moving along (Jon has been patient through all the delays and tribulations)

Anyway, started the process of changing out my fuel injectors by watching Speedy's video (splitch of fuel, huh? hahaha). Started working on the passenger side and had a hard time getting the front T30 screw out. It started easy, but about halfway through removal, it started getting really tough. Went over to the driver's side and while the rails spilled more fuel than I expected, the whole process went fairly well. Go back over to the passenger side, rear screw comes out fine, but that front is being a complete pain in the a**. Honestly, was getting the feeling that it was cross-threaded during original assembly. Figuring that the screw had to come out eventually, I pushed through (now I'm not sure that was a good idea or not). Anyway, this is what I find.

View attachment 86209

Very nice galling, if I do say so myself. Now, I could have screwed this up, but it really feels like it started cross-threaded during assembly and the just "air-tooled" in. I wasn't able to see the thread in the supercharger lid, not sure how bad those are.

Obviously, I need a new screw, I can order that from eastcoastmoparts or just go to my local dealer. However, do you think I can chase the threads in the supercharger lid to clean them out? Anyone know the size / thread pitch for that off the top of their head? Does this look more dire? Am I going to need to cut my "tap and die" teeth on my supercharger lid?

Any other advice?

Thank in advance. I appreciate you all, hopefully it won't be too much of a PITA.

Take one of the other screws to Lowes and go the hardware dept, and see which one this screws into. They have various size threaded portions on the racks right by the hardware bins. It'll be easy to figure out what size it is. I do this a lot when I have mystery hardware.

.02

 

[BULL]

I suspect you're going to need a thread repair for that thread. Off the top of my head, I can't picture the area well, but I prefer the solid thread inserts over a Heli-coil, assuming that there is meat to allow for the insert.

 

[BULL]

BTW!

If you go this route, be certain to use the correct, specified drill size! Not the typical drill size found on generic thread tapping charts...

Don't learn the hard way...

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

BTW!

If you go this route, be certain to use the correct, specified drill size! Not the typical drill size found on generic thread tapping charts...

Don't learn the hard way...

Are you trying to say that having to refill the hole with Fastweld and then drill/tap that isn't the best way to go about achieving success????

 

[BULL]

Are you trying to say that having to refill the hole with Fastweld and then drill/tap that isn't the best way to go about achieving success????

I've done some amazing things with JB Weld, but we're not at that level with this repair... ...yet..

 

[Idoru99]

That is crazy. I have taken mine out a few times and once loosened they spin out by hand. I would think you could chase the threads out. Go to the hardware store and figure out what size it is and depending how long it will be to get a replacement buy one close to use for now

Driver's side did spin out by hand.

 

[Idoru99]

I suspect you're going to need a thread repair for that thread. Off the top of my head, I can't picture the area well, but I prefer the solid thread inserts over a Heli-coil, assuming that there is meat to allow for the insert.

View attachment 86213

Thanks! I can take a picture of the area when I get home, just didn't think of it last night, was too frustrated. I'd like to give the chaser a try first, but this is probably how I'll have to go, just pisses me off.

 

[Idoru99]

I've done some amazing things with JB Weld, but we're not at that level with this repair... ...yet..

I just hope I don't have to get there....

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Thanks! I can take a picture of the area when I get home, just didn't think of it last night, was too frustrated. I'd like to give the chaser a try first, but this is probably how I'll have to go, just pisses me off.

Lube the tap when you put it in, it will cut easier.

 

[SilverBillet]

You could just clean the threads in that screw and try reinstalling it? There may be enough threads to get it torqued back down sufficiently?

 

[Idoru99]

You could just clean the threads in that screw and try reinstalling it? There may be enough threads to get it torqued back down sufficiently?

Possibly. A wire brush did nothing. I could a pick to try to clean out the threads, that could work. I'll give it a shot. Thanks.

 

[Idoru99]

This is the screw's seat in the lid.



Does that look like enough meat to tap it?

 

[fumanchu182]

worst case scenario you have to drill and tap for one size up.

 

[2fast4u]

Just use a longer bolt and put a nut on the bottom.

 

[Speedy!]

I don't think it's that big a deal. I'd just chase the threads and try a new screw. Those don't get tightened all that tight.

 

[Idoru99]

Couldn't make it to home depot yesterday due to an after work mandatory fun engagement. I'll get over there today to see about something to chase the threads and possibly tap a larger hole. I'll probably also pick up a longer bolt and nut, as @2fast4u mentioned, just to make sure I can hold the rail down to continue and get some idle logs complete.

 

[2fast4u]

For what little force this uses I would also recommend to try and find some Form-a Thread...I have used it successfully in the past on items that don't have a lot of torque on them, this looks like a prime candidate. The nut thing was a last resort type deal, temporary fix type.

 

[Idoru99]

Called the local dealership - those T30 screws are not serviceable, so they won't sell them to me??? Strange. Anyway, off to HD and Lowe's this afternoon to see what I can find.