Jacking up a Challenger from the front with a floor jack

[Jimmy N.]

New England winters would destroy it in short order. Humid summers can’t be much good for it either.

I don't think your snow is that different from our snow, and snow doesn't seem to hurt it.
Humidity is thankfully something we don't have much of, so rust really doesn't happen here, although that's likely more due to a lack of oxygen.

I keep the motor covered so rain and snow doesn't get into it, but it hasn't been maintained in any way. It's probably time to lube the rollers and such by now, though.
If you keep after it, I'd think it would survive outside at your place, too.

 

[Stormtrooper1320]

Well....After all the helpful info in this thread, Thanks Guys!, I still do not feel safe lifting one side at a time, and only feel moderately safer with 2 jacks running back and fort side to side to jack it up evenly.

So.....I am going to get a QuickJack 7000 EXT, that way I can reach the lift points without the extenders and also lift my truck safely with it too.

They have a sale going now too, today is the last day. If you get the sale price and sign up for an account to get an additional $100 off you will save a little over $300!

Downside is my wife says we should wait till spring since the car is in storage and I don't "need them" now....lol Women! But what I heard was I have permission to buy once the car is out of storage!

So...Here's to an early spring!!!

wait just a sec.....you should be able to use this line on her......"but it's on sale, look at all the money I saved".

 

[DGatzby]

back to the cross beam adapter, I think it would fit under a challenger. I think the height they are listing on there is misleading....

I found a youtube video where a guy is lifting a Challenger with a 7000 EXT model, and he's using the SUV adapters without the center height adder, and by the lock of the cross beam it is the same height as that. It appears that the rearward lift adapters they give you with the cross beam are actually the same as the SUV adapter, without the additional center height pin...Here is the video I am referencing...

My '15 was slightly lowered and I needed the floor jack to help up one side of the car in the front to get under it with the rubber pucks and the Z1 Adaptors. I am not screwing with the height of the Redeye for this reason and a couple of others. It's too easy to set up!

I bet it will be a bitch getting that cross member in. Has anyone got it to work under a Challenger yet?

 

[McLovin]

My '15 was slightly lowered and I needed the floor jack to help up one side of the car in the front to get under it with the rubber pucks and the Z1 Adaptors. I am not screwing with the height of the Redeye for this reason and a couple of others. It's too easy to set up!

I bet it will be a bitch getting that cross member in. Has anyone got it to work under a Challenger yet?

Yeah...I don't see how it would clear either. But looking at that vid, it DOES seem like there would be plenty of room. Do the R/T's sit that much higher than a Hellcat?

I'm just not sure why it would be needed, unless it gives you more flexibility with multiple vehicles. I see they have these now as well :

https://www.quickjack.com/accessories/pinch-weld-blocks/

If I wouldn't already have the ZL1 pinch weld lift pads, I'd look into these...

 

[DGatzby]

Me too. It seems fine up on the pinch welds for my needs. I'll save my money for a BMR subframe set instead, that will work also.

 

[TrackDay]

Me too. It seems fine up on the pinch welds for my needs. I'll save my money for a BMR subframe set instead, that will work also.

That's what I use. I have sfcs from Razors Edge and jack on their flat pads. I then use the pinch weld adapters for the jack stands.

 

[Jungle Cat]

I don’t like the fact it’s chips the paint on the pinchwelds.

 

[DGatzby]

JC on mine anyway, that paint is barely there. Thanks for the reminder, next time I am on the floor, I need to look at mine and see if I can spray some real paint down there, if it is scraping or chipping. It is probably worse in back, because I have to take the rear adaptors and get under the trim and slide them forward to the right spot on top of my "shorter" QuickJack spot. I put the fronts just a bit behind the designated spots, but the rears still cannot be adjacent to the rubber jacking spots. Mine lives the clean, dry warm life, so rust is my least concern right now.

 

[Jungle Cat]

JC on mine anyway, that paint is barely there. Thanks for the reminder, next time I am on the floor, I need to look at mine and see if I can spray some real paint down there, if it is scraping or chipping. It is probably worse in back, because I have to take the rear adaptors and get under the trim and slide them forward to the right spot on top of my "shorter" QuickJack spot. I put the fronts just a bit behind the designated spots, but the rears still cannot be adjacent to the rubber jacking spots. Mine lives the clean, dry warm life, so rust is my least concern right now.

Yes the rear is a bigger problem. The lift pucks are in a too tight spot with the pinch weld. I know everyone freaks about the lifting from the rear end. I have lifted with two jacks at the rear control arms and it works but it’s a pain to crawl under there and get those jacks positioned right. This is one area I really miss GM full frame cars.

 

[PaVaSteeler]

So now that I have a Challenger Scat Pack, M6, I am wanting to remove the CDV (pairing that up with a Barton), as well as make sure I have all the right equipment for performing oil changes and what not. My jack isn't really low profile enough, but I have been able to make it work with a pinch weld adapter by grinding down the fingers that stick up on the round saddle (it almost cleared prior to grinding, now I nearly ground off the fingers but hey it works! Cheaper than a new jack LOL).

Anyway, I came across this Gem:

And there was a second video similar to this one I found. I would need a different jack to reach that, or even the rearward cross member, which I think might be stronger? Anyway...I am reluctant to lift the car one side at a time (though I don't need to buy anything to do that), it doesn't feel very safe to me. I am wondering if anyone uses that cross member to jack the whole front end up evenly from the center like this video is showing? I have done this on all my other cars over the years so I don't see why you couldn't do that?

Anyone out there doing that? Any issues? I think a regular low profile jack would reach the front cross member, and a long reach low profile would reach the rear cross member no problem.

Here's the ones I use. Challenger on fits, well, the Challengers. The U View attachment 9439 View attachment 9440 niversal one is narrower and fits narrower front lift point on Charger.

The Race Ramps will allow you to do the CDV delete; don’t need to raise the car to do the Barton install.

I bought a set of replacement rear lift pads and installed them in front, further in than the rear, and a bit frontward of the pinchweld. Makes swapping front wheels at the track easy and quick.

 

[Magnified]

In reference to the thread title, isn't the Challenger pretty much jacked up from the factory already?

 

[Jungle Cat]

In reference to the thread title, isn't the Challenger pretty much jacked up from the factory already?

View attachment 10026

Awesome.

 

[Jungle Cat]

The Race Ramps will allow you to do the CDV delete; don’t need to raise the car to do the Barton install.

I bought a set of replacement rear lift pads and installed them in front, further in than the rear, and a bit frontward of the pinchweld. Makes swapping front wheels at the track easy and quick.

There is a company that makes the lift pucks for the front. Many have installed them. Most cars have threaded holes for the bolts.

 

[TrackDay]

I don’t like the fact it’s chips the paint on the pinchwelds.

I get what you're saying but chips will happen. Unless it's a show car and is trailered to all events you're fighting a losing battle.

 

[Jungle Cat]

I get what you're saying but chips will happen. Unless it's a show car and is trailered to all events you're fighting a losing battle.

Unfortunately true.