School me on spark plugs.

[vortecd]

So if I remember correctly - the stock plug is Bosch heat range 7.
The NGK heat range 7 is 1 step colder.

That would be correct. If you look at the chart a couple of posts up bosch heat range goes down in heat range and NGK goes up. NGK 6 would be the same as the bosch 7

 

[vortecd]

NGK 2309 at .028 have been working great. Remember the bigger the gap the bigger the spark and more molecules get lit off. I’d go no bigger then .028 at 20 psi, in good air I’ve seen 22 psi and no problems at .028”

I do know someone that tested gap on the dyno and saw no difference in power. I do know if you blow the spark out you will lose a bunch so better to on the low side then high side. Someone else may have seen something different but all I have on that

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I do know someone that tested gap on the dyno and saw no difference in power. I do know if you blow the spark out you will lose a bunch so better to on the low side then high side. Someone else may have seen something different but all I have on that

You are 100% correct here, you want to run the biggest SAFE gap possible. Also the projected tip of the NGK2309 is NOT the optimal design to use at higher boost and/or spray use, a shrouded “non power tip” is recommended to reduce the chance of detonation from a glowing ground strap. I’ve yet to try such in the cat but I do use such in my Capri that I spray. I even mod the plugs by drilling the ground strap to give the spark a shrouded area to light off in. And also index the plugs so the ground strap open end is pointing towards the intake valve so cool intake blast can swirl in and around the electrode to cool it off on every intake stroke. Also take note to how the ground strap tip is rounded to remove sharp edges that can get hot and glow.
Like @Hpindy says, every little bit helps and adds up!!

 

[vortecd]

You are 100% correct here, you want to run the biggest SAFE gap possible. Also the projected tip of the NGK2309 is NOT the optimal design to use at higher boost and/or spray use, a shrouded “non power tip” is recommended to reduce the chance of detonation from a glowing ground strap. I’ve yet to try such in the cat but I do use such in my Capri that I spray. I even mod View attachment 70486 View attachment 70487 View attachment 70488 the plugs by drilling the ground strap to give the spark a shrouded area to light off in. And also index the plugs so the ground strap open end is pointing towards the intake valve so cool intake blast can swirl in and around the electrode to cool it off on every intake stroke. Also take note to how the ground strap tip is rounded to remove sharp edges that can get hot and glow.
Like @Hpindy says, every little bit helps and adds up!!

Jon ran pretty fast on the 2309's so they work fine

Other then knowing some on heat range I'm by far no expert on plugs. I used to go to walmart and pick up autolite 63's for my 9 second mustang. All I know is they worked and were cheap to replace every year
https://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/autolite-63-nickel-spark-plug

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Jon ran pretty fast on the 2309's so they work fine

Other then knowing some on heat range I'm by far no expert on plugs. I used to go to walmart and pick up autolite 63's for my 9 second mustang. All I know is they worked and were cheap to replace every year
https://www.autolitesparkplugs.com/autolite-63-nickel-spark-plug

I use cheapo’s in my Capri as well nitrous doesn’t like those fancy iridium tip plugs the electrodes are too small and even though they say they could take the heat they disappear sometimes lol

 

[jonx96]

I’m pushing well north of 1600+ whp, not exactly an apples to apples comparison. I prefer Brisk but there seems to be a fair amount of folks who have experienced issues with them. I personally have never had an issue. I prefer them over NGK iridium’s because they’re more likely to melt before actual real damage occurs if things get too hot for whatever reason,

Real example, had a guy’s ice tank pump stopped working before a pass and melted plugs in one of the cylinders on what would have been a mid 8 second pass. I believe, if it had ngk’s in there, it would have hurt something else instead.

As for plug gap, if there’s a question on whether to go bigger or smaller, try smaller. Saves you trouble later if/when it blows out spark cause the gap is too large.

Normally I recommend .025 - .026 for a setup like yours. Use whatever brand you’re comfortable with.

My guess the people having troubles with brisk are driving their cars a ton on the street and not checking plugs.

 

[Blown7]

If plugs melt that's your safety "fuse"
That's been so old school since the 1960's.

Now a days I have to check each plugs resistance before installing as all manufacturers seem to have forgotten how to make plugs.

I've found the gaps change depending on manufacturer, boost level and several other factors. At lest a small gap insures a fire.

 

[vortecd]

If plugs melt that's your safety "fuse"
That's been so old school since the 1960's.

Now a days I have to check each plugs resistance before installing as all manufacturers seem to have forgotten how to make plugs.

I've found the gaps change depending on manufacturer, boost level and several other factors. At lest a small gap insures a fire.

@jonx96 used that fuse on his

 

[jonx96]

@jonx96 used that fuse on his

At 17 psi a 1.5 gap still won’t throw a mis fire somehow 😂

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

If plugs melt that's your safety "fuse"
That's been so old school since the 1960's.

Now a days I have to check each plugs resistance before installing as all manufacturers seem to have forgotten how to make plugs.

I've found the gaps change depending on manufacturer, boost level and several other factors. At lest a small gap insures a fire.

If things get hot enough to use the plug as a melt away fuse there’s usually more hurt then just a “blown fuse”. Those bits and pieces and molten materials end up in places they shouldn’t like exhaust valve seats and the porcelain is pretty abrasive when crunched up and depending on where crunched can lead to bent pushrods as well if it hangs a valve open even for just one cycle in trying to eject it. In my experience melted plugs are never a good sign, engine damage of some type most likely has occurred when you find “blown fuses” .

 

[Speedy!]

My question would be are you seeing an issue that makes you think you need to change plugs? I'm wondering what OST run in their shop car? I like their approach of only changing things that "need" to be changed.

I'll see about 18psi in really good air, 17 in not so good, and I'm running the factory Redeye plugs which are Bosch R6 if memory serves.

 

[fumanchu182]

My question would be are you seeing an issue that makes you think you need to change plugs? I'm wondering what OST run in their shop car? I like their approach of only changing things that "need" to be changed.

I'll see about 18psi in really good air, 17 in not so good, and I'm running the factory Redeye plugs which are Bosch 7 if memory serves.

I was getting knock on one pull but not others. Many variables in play. Decides to log misfires to see what was going on.



however not a single cel for misfires, leads me to believe spark blow out. Running LFR6s from ngk, gapped to .28 I think, have to look at my old posts.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Pull some plugs and see what they look like? Do just 3 5 and 7 at the very least, as their easy to get out. Maybe they are fouled from being cold? Or partially melted?

 

[fumanchu182]

Pulled 4/6/8. Couldnt get to 2 due to drag valve. Will have to evac AC for that one. Tomorrows hell, emptying bmr tank and the doing 1/3/5/7. New gap is .026. Picked up this tool for easy mode.

the feeler gauge is shit and checked it with calipers. My oem tools one is super accurate

 

[fumanchu182]

And before it goes all conspiracy theory. I ran 260GT plus on these plugs, it contains MMT. That's why the plugs are orange.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I was getting knock on one pull but not others. Many variables in play. Decides to log misfires to see what was going on.

View attachment 70507

however not a single cel for misfires, leads me to believe spark blow out. Running LFR6s from ngk, gapped to .28 I think, have to look at my old posts.

Very interested in out come to see if misfires abate and your knock this run but not another run goes away from this change. Are you changing anything else or just plugs and going a hair tighter on gap? Did you check the gap of removed plugs? Your installing new plugs right? NGK2309 or??
I’ve thought about trying a non power tip type of plug in the same heat range but pulling plugs is such a pain and playing musical plug experiments is not something I’m up for at the moment.

 

[Mean Cat]

And before it goes all conspiracy theory. I ran 260GT plus on these plugs, it contains MMT. That's why the plugs are orange.

umm, it looks a lot like the dreaded Boostane.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

umm, it looks a lot like the dreaded Boostane.

This is Ghostane, it’s going to be on the next showing of The Unexplained on the Discovery channel next Friday night.

 

[Mean Cat]

This is Ghostane, it’s going to be on the next showing of The Unexplained on the Discovery channel next Friday night.

Yep, I can't wait & will be watching.

 

[Mean Cat]

View attachment 70624 View attachment 70625 View attachment 70626
Pulled 4/6/8. Couldnt get to 2 due to drag valve. Will have to evac AC for that one. Tomorrows hell, emptying bmr tank and the doing 1/3/5/7. New gap is .026. Picked up this tool for easy mode.
View attachment 70627
the feeler gauge is shit and checked it with calipers. My oem tools one is super accurate
View attachment 70628

I have 1 of those spark plug gappers, it does make it easier to do once you get the hang of it.