School me on spark plugs.

[white1]

Its really not that bad, drivers side a piece of cake, passenger side is a bit of a bitch but really with the right tools not that bad. You ever see the picture I posted maybe 2 years ago on the ratchets, extensions, and sockets that make it not that bad? Part I hate the most is the damn electrical connectors but a cotter pin removal tool makes them a snap too.

The Gearwrench spark plug socket is all I use and it works wonderfully.

Amazon.com: GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. 5/8" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket - 80546 : Automotive

 

[fumanchu182]

My stomach hurts from reading all this, I couldn’t find anything in the manual that says what the actual compression should be. @16GoManGoHC2, How did you find that number?

When I did the test the intake was off but the throttlebody was not blocked. I am going to the track this Friday and if the car does not perform the way I want it to then Plan B will be put into motion.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

My stomach hurts from reading all this, I couldn’t find anything in the manual that says what the actual compression should be. @16GoManGoHC2, How did you find that number?

When I did the test the intake was off but the throttlebody was not blocked. I am going to the track this Friday and if the car does not perform the way I want it to then Plan B will be put into motion.

Compression tests of my own engine when new and that of a few others before modding for baseline numbers to know when it’s deteriorating and needs refreshed. Each one has always been around 210 psi with little to no variation between cylinders. Compression test and leak down testing is yearly thing I do to engines I beat on. Leak down test a good practice to do even to a new engine while it’s still on the engine stand to know leak down even before it’s first started.
When I say throttle blocked open when doing a compression test I’m meaning the throttle body butterfly valve held wide open while cranking.

 

[fumanchu182]

When I say throttle blocked open when doing a compression test I’m meaning the throttle body butterfly valve held wide open while cranking.

I definitely did not have that blocked open. It was closed. I wish that the FSM had better instructions, this is what I followed.

 

[Speedy!]

I'm flying Mike in to do my plugs when they need it.

 

[jonx96]

I'm flying Mike in to do my plugs when they need it.

Just have him come out to the next challengerfest. We can all pay our fee of beer and line the cars up for him to do 😂

 

[Diboblo]

I'm flying Mike in to do my plugs when they need it.

In 05, 06, when the 1st gen modern Mopars came out, we used to host mod days, at different forum members houses.

Maybe we could ramp up something like this, to help each other out.

Brake days.

Spark plug days (not it).

Oil change days.

Diff days...

I dunno. Just thinking out loud.

Bob

 

[fumanchu182]

Im not playing around anymore. Had the car on the lift. Everything was reviewed. Not a damn thing loose. So I have solid motor mounts, no mufflers and no resonators. Should the following not work I’m desensitizing the knock sensors.





I’m fucking sending it tomorrow night. If she blows well fuck me just have to build a race car.

 

[Hickster]

Ole lady days. Cents I don't have 1 thru 7, will have to buy 1 and bring her to the par tay. Hell with the sparks.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I'm flying Mike in to do my plugs when they need it.

Just have him come out to the next challengerfest. We can all pay our fee of beer and line the cars up for him to do 😂

Hell for the going rate of $500 a head even at a cut rate $250 a head I could make a free vacation out of the trip 🤔

 

[fumanchu182]

Ole lady days. Cents I don't have 1 thru 7, will have to buy 1 and bring her to the par tay. Hell with the sparks.

Im coming to this party. Case of beer and hawaiin shirt half unbuttoned

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

Im not playing around anymore. Had the car on the lift. Everything was reviewed. Not a damn thing loose. So I have solid motor mounts, no mufflers and no resonators. Should the following not work I’m desensitizing the knock sensors.

View attachment 54168
View attachment 54169
View attachment 54170

I’m fucking sending it tomorrow night. If she blows well fuck me just have to build a race car.

Whats you knock sensors set at now? If you don’t want to post PM me them, I’ll keep everything confidential if that is your wish.

 

[fumanchu182]

They are stock numbers.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

They are stock numbers.

Most tuners call it quits at 1600 millivolts so you have allot to tweak them up to from stock settings. Try 5% increments across the board and see what it nets. But if your pulling timing already for elevated IAT be careful!!
Any way you could at least keep the hood open while in the lanes and have someone shut it for you right before your burnout?

 

[BULL]

Im not playing around anymore. Had the car on the lift. Everything was reviewed. Not a damn thing loose. So I have solid motor mounts, no mufflers and no resonators. Should the following not work I’m desensitizing the knock sensors.

View attachment 54168
View attachment 54169
View attachment 54170

I’m fucking sending it tomorrow night. If she blows well fuck me just have to build a race car.

Is that you?

 

[fumanchu182]

No thats my friend Mike.

 

[Hickster]

Crapster,,, why knot do it your self. Pay these guys to do it when youz can do the same thing with a small amount of learning. Then when it needs to be adjusted,, you read up on it and fix the damn thing. Jezz,, like it is that hard to read up on it and fix it. Save a lot of $$$. Only reason I know is cause I have done it more than a few times. Hell,, pay me.

 

[fumanchu182]

I'm in the tune right now and playing with the knock sensors. If I understand you correctly most tuners max out at 1.6v and then stop. So theoretically if I increase the numbers in the table the threshold should be higher and less chance of knock removing timing. I plan to run a conservative tune with the knock sensors moved up and then increment timing by no more than .50 of a point after each pass. Incremental. Stock numbers:



Then the increase in threshold:


In this example it's 1.5x, that might be high but I was just playing with the tables to figure out how they work. Is this correct @16GoManGoHC2 ?

 

[Hickster]

I stayed conservative at 1st and moved from there. I 1st got started with an LT1 engine and modified it from there. Got it where I wanted it at that point then went to an LT4 and bigger and better. I didn't blow up the LT1 engine and used it as a bitch. Even though the pig only had 3,000 miles on her. Warranty at that point,, null and void. Insterting thang about tuning,, you can reinstall the original factory tune back n when you sell the critter. The tuners, good ones are not cheap but cheaper than having some one else dooo it. Education. No license required.

 

[16GoManGoHC2]

I'm in the tune right now and playing with the knock sensors. If I understand you correctly most tuners max out at 1.6v and then stop. So theoretically if I increase the numbers in the table the threshold should be higher and less chance of knock removing timing. I plan to run a conservative tune with the knock sensors moved up and then increment timing by no more than .50 of a point after each pass. Incremental. Stock numbers:

View attachment 54171

Then the increase in threshold:
View attachment 54172

In this example it's 1.5x, that might be high but I was just playing with the tables to figure out how they work. Is this correct @16GoManGoHC2 ?

Yes, 1.600 volts. Yes, tables look good, That’s a pretty first jump, by 5% I meant times the values by 1.05 not 1.5 lol but those numbers you have in lower table should not hurt your engine up, I’ve seen tables at 3-4 volts already! Send it!! You have a 9.xxx coming I just know it 🤞🙏👍👍